Focusing on Essentials: The Replica IWC Mark Series
When it comes to mechanical pilot replica watches, replica IWC Schaffhausen is undoubtedly one of the most renowned manufacturers. Unsurprisingly, the Swiss brand’s “Pilot’s replica Watches” are among its most successful models. All of replica IWC’s current Pilot’s replica Watches trace their design back to two historical models, the original version of the Big Pilot’s Watch from 1940, and the Replica IWC Mark 11, which was first ordered by the British Royal Air Force in 1948. Replica IWC has prioritized the Big Pilot’s Watch and released several new variations in recent years, so we were surprised to see that the new Replica IWC Mark XX was launched almost unnoticed and without much fanfare in the summer of 2022. The three-hand replica watches of the Replica IWC Mark series have a cult status similar to that of the Big Pilot’s Watch. This is primarily due to the popularity that the Replica IWC Mark 11 had and continues to have among collectors. Here we trace the history of the Mark models, highlight their similarities and differences, and shed light on the origins of their cult status.
The new Replica IWC Mark XX is a direct descendent of the Mark 11. Externally, it differs only in minor details from its predecessors Mark XII, Mark XV, Mark XVI, Mark XVII and Mark XVIII. A look that has remained nearly unchanged decade after decade, combined with a tidy dial, good legibility and tool watch character, have helped the Mark models become one of the icons of the watch world. Their fascination lies in the fact that nothing about the dial’s design is accidental: Every numeral, every index, every hand and every choice of color has a meaning that derives from a former military necessity. All this made the Replica IWC Mark 11 a quintessential tool watch.
Prehistory
Pilots of the Royal Air Force encountered major problems with their wristwatches during World War II. The dials were not luminous, the movements were susceptible to temperature fluctuations, and the timekeeping became progressively less accurate as the replica watches aged. This imprecision was not so much because the timepieces had been poorly regulated in the factory. Rather, their faulty timekeeping was primarily due to poorly sealed cases offering inadequate protection against dirt and moisture. To make matters worse, the movements were adversely affected by magnetic fields, which grew steadily stronger and more prevalent in cockpits along with the ever-increasing use of electronics aboard aircraft. As a result of these experiences and against the backdrop of the looming Cold War, the British government decided after 1945 to purchase better navigation replica watches for the RAF. Two Swiss manufacturers, Replica IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre, were ultimately selected to supply them.
Eight years before that, the Schaffhausen-based company had already supplied the aptly named “Big” aviators’ watch (with a diameter of 55 mm) for the German Luftwaffe (as had the German manufacturers A. Lange & Söhne, Laco, Stowa and Wempe). Even before that, as early as 1936, replica IWC had already developed a wristwatch called the “Special Watch for Pilots” with some features of later pilots’ replica watches: a black dial, luminous hands and numerals, and a rotating bezel that had an arrow marking the zero position that was easy to operate while wearing gloves. In addition, as an ad from replica IWC confidently proclaimed, this model had an unbreakable crystal and an antimagnetic movement “regulated from –40° C cold to +40° C heat” (–40° F to +104° F). The Special Watch for Pilots seems to have been used primarily for civilian purposes. Replica IWC was also one of 12 suppliers of the “W.W.W.” field replica watches (the abbreviation stood for “watch, wrist, waterproof”) that the British military purchased for its ground troops. Although the W.W.W. was not intended for pilots, it had a black dial with white hands and, like the Special Watch for Pilots, was later regarded by collectors as the forerunner of the Mark 11. Both of these replica watches were often called the “Mark IX” and “Mark X,” although it was historically incorrect.
Replica IWC Mark 11
The British military used the term “Mark” followed by a number to designate items of equipment, and this gear included wristwatches. Roman numerals were used until 1942, but between 1943 and 1948, Arabic numerals replaced them. The correct spelling of the watch is therefore “Mark 11.” Its exact designation was “Navigational Wrist Watch Mark 11, Store Ref. 6B/346.”
The requirements for this model were rigorous. It had to be very accurate, and at the same time, extremely robust, reliable, as well as easy to service. The issue of magnetic field protection posed a special challenge for replica IWC because the antimagnetic materials that were available at the time were not wear-resistant and were adversely affected by temperature fluctuations. The engineers in Schaffhausen recalled a solution from the early 20th century: a cage made of soft iron. A dial crafted from an approximately 1-mm-thick plate of soft iron, together with a movement-holder ring and an interior back cover made from the same material, formed a Faraday shield that conducted magnetic fields around the movement. Resistance to magnetic fields became one of the key features of the Replica IWC Mark 11, but its chronometer-accurate, hand-wound replica IWC Caliber 89 movement with central second hand, designed by Albert Pellaton, and the crystal above its dial, which was screwed in place from the inside, were also impressive. The inner screws prevented the crystal from being blown off the watch in the event of a sudden drop in pressure aboard the aircraft. The black dial was easy to read, even at night, unlike the RAF navigation replica watches from World War II, because the hands and markings on the dial were lined with luminous material.
All in all, the Royal Air Force used the Replica IWC Mark 11 for more than 30 years from the delivery of the first watches in November 1949 until 1981, but the watch repeatedly underwent changes during this time. Like the W.W.W., the first models had a double-digit 12, but the numeral was replaced with a triangle in 1952. The hands were also redesigned to look less similar to one another and thus avoid confusion: The minute hand kept its tip, which extended into the minute track, but the hour hand was shortened, widened and lost its sharply pointed tip. Finally, in 1963, tritium replaced radium as the luminous substance. The newer watches can be recognized by the letter T inside a small circle above the numeral 6.
When military orders for the replica IWC Mark 11 gradually ran out in the late 1970s and early 1980s, replica IWC sold another three series of 500 watches each on the civilian market. They can be recognized by the fact that, unlike the previously produced models, these newer ones have a sevendigit serial number on the inside of the caseback. These fake watches were in high demand among collectors, a fact that did not go unnoticed by those in charge at replica IWC. Furthermore, owners of older models spared no expense to have their vintage Mark 11 watches refurbished.replica IWC’s product development increasingly focused attention on the topic of a new sporty watch reminiscent of the characteristic design of a pilots’ watch. This initially resulted in a pilots’ chronograph with a quartz movement, Ref. 3740, which was introduced in 1988.
replica IWC Mark XII
In 1994, the time had come when the replica IWC Mark was back as the Mark XII.replica IWC returned to using Roman numerals in the watch’s name and, above all, retained the basic design features: a black dial, white luminescent hands and numerals, the triangle at the 12, and even the short, wide-tipped hour hand. The two most noticeable changes were a new typeface, which differed from its predecessor mainly by the serifs of the numeral 1, and especially the new date window at 3 o’clock.
Inside the case, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Caliber 889/1 served as a reliable automatic movement. It remained mostly undecorated as replica IWC Caliber 884, but its lack of embellishment didn’t matter very much because the movement was concealed behind an opaque, screw-down, steel caseback. As with subsequent models, a soft iron cage provided protection against magnetic fields. With its curved sapphire crystal, threaded crown, water resistance to a depth of 50 meters and authentic pilot watch design, the replica IWC Mark XII was an extremely attractive addition to the still somewhat narrow range of mechanical watches that were available at the time.replica IWC expressed its confidence by pricing this model at 3,850 German marks at a time when, for example, a chronograph like the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch could still be bought for 2,500 German marks.
replica IWC Mark XV
The numbers 13 and 14 are considered unlucky in some parts of the world, so in 1999, as the watch market was becoming increasingly globalized,replica IWC’s management decided to skip over those two numbers and call the successor model “Mark XV.“ Comparing it to the replica IWC Mark XII, one can see the trend toward progressively larger watches, which gradually picked up steam in the ’90s and became increasingly evident in the aughts. A diameter of 36 mm, which was the size of the replica IWC Mark XII’s case, seemed unappealingly petite for a men’s watch. Nevertheless,replica IWC initially took only small steps and decided to enlarge the replica IWC Mark XV to no more than 38 mm.
At the time, collectors criticized the use of the ETA Caliber 2892, which was less exclusive than the Jaeger-LeCoultre 889/1 and which replica IWC designated as Caliber 37524. This caliber was 25.6 mm in diameter, which made it smaller than Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 28.4-mm-diameter Caliber 889/1 and caused the date window to move even further toward the dial’s center. However, this was at least partly offset by the stronger numerals and indexes, as well as by the sportier hour markers, which were wider but not longer than the minute markers. Slightly longer lugs, along with strap bars positioned further away from the case, made the watch look less compact. With a folding clasp on the strap and water resistance slightly increased to 60 meters, the replica IWC Mark XV scored points over the Mark XII in terms of features. The price had meanwhile risen to 4,550 German marks (2,326 euros) and continued to climb, reaching 2,770 euros by 2005.
replica IWC Mark XVI
When the replica IWC Mark XVI replaced the replica IWC Mark XV in 2006, watch fans were becoming increasingly critical of date disks that didn’t match the color of the dial.replica IWC took this criticism to heart and styled the date display with white numerals on a black background. At 39 mm in diameter, the replica IWC Mark XVI had grown once again, but it consciously kept a safe distance from its larger sibling, the 46-mm Big Pilot, which was introduced in 2002. It nevertheless borrowed some design features from the Big Pilot, such as the diamond shaped hands, the slimmer numerals and the 1 written in English style, i.e., sans serif. Like the Big Pilot’s Watch, which also underwent revision in 2006, the replica IWC Mark XVI eliminated the numerals 6 and 9.
In addition, the triangle at the 12 was moved upward into the minute track, where it was flanked by a pair of white dots, and the rectangular index at the 12 disappeared. The three quarter-hour indexes were now much longer than the minute indexes, and together with the triangle at the top of the dial, they formed a kind of crosshair look. The lengthened stroke at the 3 concealed the fact that the date window had been moved even further toward the center of the dial. This shift occurred because the watch’s diameter had increased while the movement remained the same, although replica IWC gave it a new designation as Caliber 30110. This naturally increased the distance between the date window and the edge of the dial. Replica IWC also kept the price initially unchanged at 2,770 euros, and did so despite the fact that the former buffalo leather wristband had been replaced by a crocodile leather strap, which was secured by a pin buckle instead of a folding clasp like the replica IWC Mark XV.
replica IWC Mark XVII
In 2012, the cult Pilot’s Watch continued to grow, now measuring 41 mm. The numerals were again broader and bolder, the trio of quarterhour markers continued to stretch beyond the inner circumference of the minute track at 3, 6 and 9, and the 5-minute strokes were wider but slightly shorter, which made them the same length as the minute markers. The most noticeable change occurred in the date window, which now displayed an arc of three dates, one above the other. The middle number, which showed the actual date, was indicated by a red arrow, a feature that can be found in other replica IWC Pilot’s Watches, such as the Chronograph, the Double Chronograph and the Worldtimer. The triple date and red triangle can be interpreted as replica IWC’s attempt to enliven the sober practicality of the replica IWC Mark Pilot’s Watch with a pinch of colorful emotion, but this innovation wasn’t universally welcomed because it detracted somewhat from the simple, quick and excellent legibility that constitutes one of the replica IWC Mark 11’s primary virtues. The caliber and the water resistance remained unchanged, as did the soft iron inner case and the crocodile leather strap. The overall height was reduced slightly, from 11.5 to 11 mm, and the price was now 4,300 euros.
replica IWC Mark XVIII
In 2016,Replica IWC took another welcome step backward with the 2016 debut of the replica IWC Mark XVIII, which reinstated the classic rectangular date window and the display of the numerals 6 and 9. This also eliminated the crosshair look and, for the first time ever, the quarter-hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 did not extend further toward the dial’s center than their slimmer counterparts elsewhere along the minute track. As a result, however, the date window looked as though it was even further away from the dial’s edge, although the case diameter was reduced slightly to 40 mm. Now that the index at the 12 had returned and the orientation triangle could be moved down slightly, which gave the dial a more balanced design. The replica IWC Mark XVIII also moved closer to its historical roots with the abandonment of a crocodile strap in favor of a cowhide one, although replica IWC’s Creative Director Christian Knoop preserved the diamond shape of the hour and minute hand. The watch now cost 4,490 euros and was also available for the first time in the Top Gun and Le Petit Prince lines. By 2022, the price rose to 4,950 euros.
Mark XX
Was the silent and virtually fanfare-free introduction of the Mark XX due to the fact that, at first glance, it looks nearly identical to its predecessor? Or was it launched because it has not yet replaced the Mark XVIII? Whatever the reason, the fact remains that when this chronicle of the Mark watches went to press, both models were listed on replica IWC’s website and available for purchase there. The Mark XX introduces three obvious changes. As in the past, the hour and minute hands are still filled with white luminous material, but the hands themselves are rhodium-plated rather than black. The quarter-hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 have been lengthened again. As a result, the orientation triangle at the 12 is repositioned lower and the space between the brand logo and the dial’s center is used more harmoniously. We were surprised to see the return of the white date disk. This color scheme more clearly highlights the date.replica IWC could make this change with a clear conscience because, compared to the Mark XVIII, the date window no longer appears to be quite as close to the dial’s center. This is not only due to the extended hour index at 3 o’clock, but above all to a new, larger movement inside the case, where the ETA Caliber 2892 has given way to a group-owned caliber. This one came from Richemont movement expert ValFleurier and is also used in a similar form by sister brands Baume & Mercier (BM13-1975) and Panerai (P.900). At replica IWC, the automatic movement is called Caliber 32111 and is decorated with Geneva waves and circular graining. The greatest advantage of the new movement, which, as always, is shielded from magnetic fields by a soft iron cage, is its long 5-day power reserve. Caliber 32111 is also thinner than the 30110/ETA 2892, which enabled replica IWC to make
the Mark XX slightly slimmer — its overall height has been lowered to 10.8 mm instead of 11 mm. The new movement offers several advantages, as does the steel case. The case diameter remains unchanged at 40 mm, but its water resistance has been increased to 100 meters, while previous models offered only 60 meters. The third advantage comes with the calfskin strap with pin buckle. Thanks to replica IWC’s proprietary “EasX-Change” quick-change system, no tools are needed to easily detach one strap and replace it with another. Priced at $5,250, the Mark XX is 10 percent more expensive than the Mark XVIII, but the improvements in the movement, strap and water resistance justify the higher price. Furthermore, the Mark XX brings color to the Mark series for the first time: In addition to the classic black model, there is also a version with a blue dial and blue strap and one with a green dial and brown strap.
The Mark 11 was a genuine tool watch, designed to meet the needs of pilots who required a watch that was reliable, accurate and, above all, easy to read. The design focused on the essentials: nothing superfluous distracted the aviator’s attention. The result was a basic design that has lasted for decades and still looks handsome and contemporary today. The models launched since 1994 differ only in subtle nuances that catered to the respective zeitgeist, and yet they look so similar to one another that it is difficult to tell exactly which year a Mark XV, XVI or XVIII hails from if you scrutinize it in isolation, without being able to directly compare it to its predecessors and descendants. Incidentally, 2023 is exactly three quarters of a century after replica IWC first received the order for the Mark 11 from the Royal Air Force. You can certainly expect further variations to appear for that milestone anniversary — and they probably won’t be launched quite so quietly.
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